In March 2005 Giambattista Valli showed his first eponymous collection in Paris. His debut emphasised polished pieces such as curvy tuxedos or tiny cocktail frocks in scarlet chiffon or black tulle.
The Italian designer (born in Rome, 1966) already had an impressive CV by that time however, with a role as artistic director of Emanuel Ungaro's ready-to-wear collections as his most high profile appointment to date. Valli, who grew up in Rome, cites quintessential glamorous movie icons such as Claudia Cardinale, Marilyn Monroe and Rita Hayworth as early influences. His formal studies focused more squarely on fashion from 1980 when he studied at Rome's School of Art, followed by fashion training at the European Design Institute (1986) and an Illustration degree at Central Saint Martins in London (1987). In 1988 Valli worked for seminal Roman designer Roberto Capucci, moving to Fendi as a senior designer of the Fendissime line in 1990; in 1995 he was appointed senior designer at Krizia.
The following year, through a mutual friend, Valli met Emanuel Ungaro. The master couturier named Valli head designer of his ready-to-wear collections in 1997, eventually promoting him to the position of creative director of Ungaro ready-to-wear two years later. At Ungaro, Valli translated the established house codes of tumbling ruffles, tropical-flower colours and elegantly draped, ultra-feminine gowns for a younger generation of jet-setting glamour girls.
Besides glitzier idols such as Halston and Marie-Helene de Rothschild, Valli also cites Francis Bacon, Kurt Cobain and Nan Goldin as continual sources of inspiration.